After more than two-and-a-half years, Japan finally reopened its borders to individual travel on Oct. 11, 2022. Three weeks later, I was among the fortunate ones to touch down in the Land of the Rising Sun, eager to rediscover its vibrant cities, tranquil temples, and breathtaking landscapes.
My love affair with Japan began in 2016 when I visited for the first time. From the moment I arrived, I was captivated by the harmonious blend of ancient traditions and modern innovation, not to mention the exquisite cuisine. That first trip sparked a desire to return year after year, spending one to three months at a time exploring every corner of the country. But like many travelers, the pandemic put a hold on those plans. My last visit to Japan was in early February 2020, just before COVID-19 disrupted global travel. I had to cut my trip short due to personal reasons, but I reassured myself that I would be back soon. Little did I know that it would take over two-and-a-half years before I could return.
Japan’s borders remained tightly closed for much longer than other countries, with the government implementing strict entry rules to curb the spread of the virus. In June 2022, Japan began to relax its restrictions slightly, allowing only escorted tour groups, capped at 20,000 visitors per day. By September, non-guided travelers on “package tours” were allowed entry, but it wasn’t until Oct. 11, 2022, that individual travelers were once again welcomed into Japan.
The moment the news broke, I knew I had to act fast. I texted my cousin and her boyfriend, and we immediately started rearranging our schedules. Within days, we had booked our flights, eager to explore Japan once again. On Oct. 30, we arrived in Tokyo, excited for what was sure to be another unforgettable adventure.
What to Know Before You Go
As of now, Japan has fully reopened to travelers, and tourists can move freely across the country. However, there are still some important entry requirements to keep in mind. To enter Japan, you must either be fully vaccinated (including a booster) or present proof of a negative COVID-19 PCR test taken within 72 hours of your departure.
Before your trip, you’ll also need to download the MySOS app, which is essential for completing the pre-registration process. Through the app, you’ll fill out a Fast Track questionnaire, upload a photo of your passport, and provide either your vaccination card or COVID-19 test results. While the final review took about an hour for me, I recommend completing the process at least a day before departure to avoid any last-minute stress.
How I Got There
I used my American Airlines miles to book a flight on Japan Airlines (JAL), part of the One World alliance. Award flights started from 70,000 miles for a roundtrip economy ticket—about 10,000 more points than pre-pandemic rates. While we could check in online, we had to visit the airport counter to obtain our boarding passes. At check-in, we were asked to show our passports and the results from the MySOS app.
Our flight departed at 12:30 p.m. and landed at Narita International Airport just before 3:45 p.m. local time. Japan Airlines enforced a strict mask policy on board, and I even witnessed a flight attendant waking up a passenger to ensure they were wearing one. The flight was about 75% full, and as we disembarked, staff checked the MySOS app results, directing passengers to the appropriate lines based on their Fast Track status. With a green “B” result, I was quickly cleared through the “quarantine booth,” which was more of a checkpoint than an actual quarantine. After that, we went through immigration and customs in a remarkably efficient manner, taking only 30 minutes to exit the airport.
The New Japan Rail Pass System
One of the most significant changes since my last visit is the improved Japan Rail Pass (JR Pass) system, which is a must for travelers looking to explore multiple cities. The JR Pass grants unlimited access to JR trains, including the Shinkansen (bullet trains), for a set period—seven, 14, or 21 days. While you can still purchase passes in the U.S., there’s now an option to buy them online, which makes planning much easier.
Another improvement is the addition of dedicated machines at train stations, allowing you to reserve seats with your JR Pass instead of waiting in line to speak with an agent. The new passes, which are now issued as tickets rather than laminated booklets, also enable you to use the automated turnstiles at stations—cutting down on waiting times.
What It’s Like in Japan Right Now
Japan is open for business, and the atmosphere feels almost back to normal—albeit with fewer crowds. During my stay, I noticed a significant decrease in Western tourists compared to pre-pandemic levels, especially outside of Kyoto. However, there were plenty of visitors from the Asia-Pacific region, as well as some European tourists.
Although masks are no longer required in most venues, they remain highly encouraged, especially on public transportation. In Japan, where mask-wearing was already common before the pandemic, nearly everyone I encountered wore one while on buses and trains.
We arrived at The Peninsula Tokyo, where we were warmly greeted by the staff. The hotel is renowned for its exceptional service, and this visit was no different. Our suite overlooked Hibiya Park and the Imperial Palace grounds—a stunning view that only added to our excitement. We spent our first afternoon wandering through Ginza, Tokyo’s luxury shopping district, before returning to the hotel for a comforting bowl of Ippudo ramen, complete with a variety of toppings like spicy cod roe and Cantonese-style char siu.
Exploring Tokyo
The next few days in Tokyo were filled with exploration. We visited Harajuku, Shibuya, and Akihabara—all popular spots for shopping and character-themed merchandise like Pokémon and One Piece. We indulged in chicken katsu sandwiches at Maisen, bento boxes from depachika, and sushi at Toyosu Market. One highlight was visiting teamLab Planets, an immersive digital art museum known for its stunning water and garden exhibitions.
In the evenings, we returned to The Peninsula, exhausted from our day of adventure, but excited to find a new Japanese-themed turndown amenity waiting for us in our suite—one night, a bottle of the hotel’s own sake, and the next, a white chocolate bear wearing the signature Peninsula uniform.
A Taste of Tradition in Takayama
After three nights in Tokyo, we boarded a train to Takayama, a quaint city in Gifu Prefecture known for its preserved old town and Hida beef. We stayed at the Temple Hotel Zenkoji, a shukubo (temple lodging) attached to the Zenkoji Temple. The room had a traditional Japanese aesthetic, complete with tatami mat floors and shoji screens, and overlooked a serene internal garden.
Takayama is a food lover’s paradise, and we made the most of it by sampling Hida beef croquettes, beef sushi, and ramen. We also enjoyed shabu-shabu and yakiniku—both popular Japanese hot pot dishes. One of the highlights of our stay was taking part in the morning prayer service at Zenkoji Temple, where the priest led us through the Heart Sutra and shared insights on Buddhism.
Discovering Kanazawa
Next, we traveled to Kanazawa, the capital of Ishikawa Prefecture. While many hotels were fully booked, we managed to find a cozy rental near Omicho Market, a bustling indoor market filled with fresh seafood. We indulged in local delicacies like horsehair crab, eel, and scallops. During our stay, we explored Higashi Chaya, a geisha district, and Nagamachi, a beautifully preserved samurai district.
We also stumbled upon the Armchair Travel Festival, where vendors from all over Japan showcased their products. This unexpected discovery added a unique touch to our time in Kanazawa.
A Luxurious Stay in Kyoto
Our final stop was Kyoto, where we checked into The Shinmonzen, a new luxury boutique hotel designed by renowned Japanese architect Tadao Ando. Located in the heart of Kyoto’s historic Gion district, the hotel features just nine suites, each filled with art and designed for discerning travelers. Our suite, Kinu, featured a balcony overlooking the Shirakawa River, and a traditional Japanese bedroom with tatami mat floors.
We spent our days in Kyoto visiting iconic sites like Fushimi Inari Taisha and exploring local markets. With its exceptional location, The Shinmonzen made it easy to access popular spots like Pontocho Alley and Nishiki Market.
Final Thoughts
As my trip came to an end, I reflected on how much I had missed Japan over the past two-and-a-half years. The country is as magical as ever, and while tourism is slowly picking up again, it still feels like a well-kept secret. With Japan now fully reopened, I’m already planning my next adventure, eager to explore even more of this incredible destination.
